Canberra Sunday Times - 3 February 2002
Wine & Food South Africa
 As I sat back and relaxed aboard my South African Airways flight with a glass of Meerlust Chardonnay in one hand and a South African travel guide in the other, I closed my eyes and envisioned what South Africa had to offer the first time visitor.

My mind was conjuring up the many things that I wanted to see and those I had heard about - the Palace of the Lost City, the game parks, Victoria Falls, Johannesberg, Cape Town and all points in between. What were they like? What about the crime? What about all those reports on TV? I remember having the same feeling about my first trip to South America in 1995 Argentina & Chile and now I know those places so well I would take the kids there to pick the grapes! So what would South Africa be like? 

As we swept over the eastern side of the African continent and descended into Johannesberg, I was looking out of the window trying to come to grips with the terrain below. Johannesberg did not seem exciting and the myriad of shanty towns and townships laying before me was not impressive, but don't judge a book by its cover. After changing planes we headed south west for a two hour flight to Cape Town, my final destination. As we flew into Cape Town the view to the right of our approach over Table Bay was majestic. Table Mountain was draped in a beautiful orange twilight. I couldn't wait to get off the plane and explore, after all, it was Saturday night. 

Cape Town is the mother city of South Africa, founded in 1652 by Jan van Riebeeck and was once a refreshment stop to the spice rich East Indies for both the Dutch and British merchants. It has much to offer the visitor from the bay right up to the top of Table Mountain where the vista and scenic beauty of this once colonial outpost leaves you spellbound. Spectacular views of the city of Cape Town lie below and the infamous Robben Island glistens in the blue waters of Table Bay. Table Mountain can be accessed by either taking a 10 minute ride in the revolving cable car to the summit or if you're looking for a challenge you may prefer to walk up (many do) and explore the flora with nearly 1500 species found on the mountain, nearly as many as found in the entire British Isles. Bird lovers will likewise be engrossed with the wildlife.  Whichever way you go, pick your moment well, as the weather can change literally by the minute and before you know it the mountain is clouded in mist. It is really exciting and a must to see. You could spend a whole day on top of the mountain taking in the sweeping views out into the Atlantic and enjoying the cafes, the restaurant and the wildlife. Take my advice - you haven't been to Cape Town if you haven't been to the top of Table Mountain. $17 return by cable car.

Robben Island is 14km off Cape Town situated at the entrance to Table Bay (now a World Heritage Site) and is another must on your itinerary. Of course it is the former home of the apartheid and other prisoners, most notably Nelson Mandela. The 30 minute ferry ride is part of the four hour tour of the island which was opened to the public on New Year's day 1997, when the keys were given to the prisoners who actually take you on tour of the island and entertain you with their stories of past events. A well worthwhile visit. Boats leave the Victoria and Alfred (V&A)  waterfront every hour and cost $25.

There are many ultra modern shopping centres around the Cape but none more so than the Victoria and Alfred shopping complex situated around the harbour foreshore of Cape Town. Similar to Sydney's Darling Harbour (but with a lot more class), the Aussie visitor will find that it's one of the few places in the world where their dollar stretches just as long as it takes to fly there.

A visit to Cape Point, known as 'The Cape of Good Hope' is a leisurely two hours drive south of Cape Town taking in the inlets and beautiful bays of Bantry, Clifton, Camps Bay and Llandudno. Along the coast to Hout Bay, we headed south to Hermanus cutting through the peninsula to Scarborough and Cape Point. Arriving at this southern most tip of Africa one looks out to where the Atlantic meets the Pacific with a spectacular backdrop of cliffs and amazing flora and fauna. It's not hard to imagine what Cecile Rhodes (a great British explorer) had in mind, which was to make this whole continent from the southern tip of South Africa to Cairo in the north, a British colony. But as history has recorded, that was not to be.

Wine and food in Cape Town is not far away. Vineyard Ventures (Tel. 27 21 434 8888) were my tour escorts and did a magnificent job showing me all that the Cape wine regions have to offer. In fact the nearby region of Constantia is only 20 minutes from Cape Town with the stunning Constantia Mountains as a backdrop. Visit the wineries of Buitenverwatching, Klein Contantia, Steenberg and Constantia Uitsig, the latter where I highly recommend you stay for lunch. Here Frank Swainston will tantalise your tastebuds with his food (modern South African). I strongly recommend the Pan Fried Foie Gras with Poached Pear and warm Rosemary sauce accompanied by a small glass of Meerlust dessert wine, absolutely divine. The Sauvignon Blancs and Shiraz from all the wineries mentioned are worthy of note. (Tel.Constantia Uitsig on 27 21 974 4480).

From my ultra luxury pad at the Spier Country Club (Tel. 27 21 809 1157) outside Stellenbosch we visited Hartenberg where we enjoyed a rustic lunch and a few of their wines with the owners James and Tanya Browne. From there we visited Warwick Estate (inaugural winner of the 2000 Tri-Nation Chardonnay Challenge), the other nations being Australia and New Zealand. Then on to the cutting edge, ultra modern winery of Rustenberg where all wines are tasted in Riedel glassware. Some Chardonnays came into play here as did the Sauvignon Blancs and Cabernet Sauvignons which were all excellent. 

The beautiful town of Stellenbosch (a university town) with its Dutch influence in architecture, tree lined streets, brick-a-back shops, restaurants, bars and cafes is a sheer delight. One worth spending a day at to chill out from wining and dining, soak up the heritage and atmosphere, not to mention the brilliant backdrop of the Stellenbosch Mountains which overtower the town. 

We visited a number of wineries in Paarl and Franschhoek and dined at No 96 Winery Road where the steaks (served on the bone) are as big as the mountains and the wine list goes on and on describing local wines of the area and wines of the 'world' (being the rest of South Afica!). We overnighted at Franschhoek Country House which is absolutely stunning, Laura Ashley-like and with a restaurant to match any in the culinerary world. 

My final vineyard visits took me to the Walker Bay region and Beaumont's at Bot River (where I stayed the night) and Bouchard Finlayson. The former offer such wines as Pinotage, Shiraz and Sauvigon Blanc which are all well deserved, the latter offers some excellent Pinots, Chardonnays and a curious mix of Sangiovese/Nebbiolo/Pinot simply called 'Hannibal' named after you know who. The Meerlust property, I am reliably informed, is the most photographed property in the whole of South Africa. Situated in Helderberg, their Chardonnay, which I tried on my SAA flight over, was outstanding as were the Pinots (Burgundian in style) - rich, soft and mellow, full of earthy, gamey characters. 

Security is a must wherever you go and South Africa is no exception. People usually don't go out at night, unless escorted. We only saw one policeman in eight days and that was in the Company Gardens in Cape Town, and a few traffic cops in the country and that was it. Taxis do not cruise. Pick up a metered red taxi only from your hotel to wherever and return by same. Otherwise take all the usual precautions as you would at home.

While I did not get to the Palace of the Lost City or the prized game parks, those visits will wait for my anticipated return. And yes, on that occasion I would be very happy to take the kids. The food and wine scene of the Cape was incredible as was the class and style of accommodation. The scenery around the wine regions would have to be the most beautiful I have ever come across on my travels around the wine regions of the world. The wine industry there is a sleeping giant, about to waken and ready to roar. When it does, the winds of change throughout the African continent will reverberate around the globe. South Africa is cheap, cheap, cheap and well worth a visit. 

Travel Facts
South African Tourism Commission Sydney;
Tel. 02 9261 3424. info@satour.com.au
South African Airways has 5 flights a week departing Sydney
and 4 from Perth. Tel. 02 9223 4402
Flight Time: 14hrs 30 East bound, 11hrs 15 West bound
Immunisation: See your doctor, depending on what part of Africa you visit.
Electricity: 220/230 volts AC
Country Code: 27
Currency : Rand 4.5R to Aussie $
Visas: Non required for a stay of less than 90 days
Wines of South Africa: info@sawsea.co.za
Cape Metropolitan Tourism;
www.gocapetown.co.za
Car Hire: Tempest were the absolute cheapest: On arrival;0860 031 666.
VAT: 14%
Places to stay: Holiday Inn, CT. Tel. 27 21 409 4000
- Spier Country Club 27 21 809 1157
- Franschhoek Country House: Tel.27 21 876 3386
Restaurant to visit:
- Cape Grace Hotel, CT.Tel. 27 21 410 7100
 Others as listed above.