National
Liquor News - July 2001
Viva Vino in Las Vegas
The food and wine scene in Las Vegas is not only
alive and well, but like everything else in this place, it's downright
over?the-top. While the fine dining restaurants in the top hotels are trying
to outdo each other with art works, there are others putting on a show
to rival Siegfried & Roy around the corner.
Take Aureole for example situated in the Mandalay
Bay Hotel at the southern end of the strip. This restaurant boasts Charlie
Palmer as its chef, but the food is secondary here. People come primarily
to view the (US$ 1.2m) wine 'tower' which stands four storeys high and
boasts a wine list of 3,500 wines and still growing. To visualise their
unique concept, let me explain how things operate in this 007 type restaurant.
From the mezzanine level of the hotel you descend four floors in a glass
lift to the restaurant, the centrepiece of which is the glass wine tower.
The wine list is presented to you and resembles a copy of the yellow pages
and weighs about the same. The somellier takes your order by speaking into
a tiny microphone embedded under the collar of his jacket: for example,
"table 26, one bottle of 53504" (which turns out to be Rhinehold Haart,
Piesporter Goldtropkhen, Riesling, Kabinett 1997). This message goes straight
through to the dainty little 'wine angel' who is dressed like cat woman
complete with ear mike and who is encased in the glass tower. The angel,
aided by an electronic harness, proceeds to climb the wine tower. On finding
the bottle you're after, she places it in her wine cradle attached to both
hips, climbs down and gives the wine to the somellier who proceeds to bring
it direct to your table. Voila!
Of course the novelty of Aureole is watching the
wine angel retrieve your wine from the cellar. Should your wine not be
stocked in the cellar, a commis somellier will run like hell to the main
cellar which is half a block away (they're big blocks in LV) to fetch the
ordered wine.
A series of symbols beside selected wines helps
make sense of the wine list. For example, 0 ?'Sorry someone else beat you
to it!'; * ?'We highly recommend you do' ! ? 'Serious Grape juice!'; $
? 'The scales of supply and demand are currently in your favour'; and ?
?'What the ..... is this?' . My own symbol (!!??!!) would stand for' Oh
my God, look at these prices, what's this in the Australian rupiah, why
didn't we BYO?' At US $35 corkage fee, believe me, it is still a much cheaper
alternative.
Despite all this the wine list could never be
described as balanced. For example there are 129 Gruner Ventliners
from Austria, 910 wines (both red & white)
from France and Germany is represented by whites only, both table and dessert
with 191 wines listed. Australia has 29 white wines, 9 fortified, 1 sparkling
red and 192 red wines including all the usual suspects ie Penfolds, Wynns,
Leeuwin etc. There are a few odd ones such as Bannockburn, Tim Adams, Hinkinbotham,
Yarra Yering, d'Arenberg, Pikes, Elderton, but surprisingly no Rosemount.
The wine list as one would expect has an above average number of American
wines with 220 white and 658 red wines listed.
The mark?up at Aureole is ridiculous in the extreme
with a Seppelt 1899, yes 1899 vintage tawny port (375 mls) going for US$1,400.This
is one of those marked with a exclamation mark to mean 'serious grape juice'.
The restaurant wine list was given the Wine Spectator's 'Grand Award' 2000.
To me the wine list, or should I say the somellier who put it together
should be given the year 2000 award for time wasting. Unless Americans
are so discerning as to be able to pronounce Gruner Ventliner let alone
understand what it actually is, then it counts for nothing. One could go
on and on about the wine list content and layout but in the end you're
not there to criticise the list you're there to watch the wine angel strut
her stuff.
Aureole is spacious, clean as a whistle, and extremely
up?market. So up?market, it's intimidating and of course with prices to
match. You can sit back and take in the cascading waterfalls complete with
white swans swimming literally in front of you as you dine on the terrace.
Meanwhile the chef is keeping an eye on you from the kitchen while the
many waiters speak discreetly (like all good secret agents) into their
collars to let the chef know how slow or fast you're eating. The chef already
knows how your table is going ? he has two large TV screens in the kitchen
and can view every table from his kitchen and even zoom in for a close
up. He knows when you've finished your meal and how long the plate has
been sitting on the table. The whole thing is quite surreal.
I much prefer The Wine Cellar Tasting Room &
Retail Shop at The Rio ? All Suite Hotel & Casino. It's less clinical
and more relaxing, more inviting. Here the wine cellar sits directly under
the main gambling floor and was built purposely at a cost of US $9m. It's
an impressive working cellar with an extensive array of wines befitting
a hotel of this size (although nothing to match Aureole) .
The cellar forms alcoves to sit and discreetly
discuss wine, or you can sit up at the bar and have the wine served to
you. Food is virtually non existent except for a cheese platter and some
nibbles of a day. But it's informal, welcoming and above all a non?threatening
cosy, cellar?type atmosphere. It's the kind of place where you would enjoy
a wine flight and then browse the cellar and shop for that rare fine wine
at an affordable price, if there is such a thing in Vegas.
Wine flights are the order of the day here with
30 flights to choose from ranging in price from US $10?55 for three wines
each containing 2oz glasses (60mls). The flights change every two months.
Australia rates just one flight on the current list being 'Chardonnay from
Down Under'. This features Shaw & Smith ($5 per glass), Massoni ($12)
and d'Arenberg ($14) or the flight of three for US$15. Boring really, I
would have thought a good flight would consist of say three Chardonnays
of the same vintage, from different wine regions around the world so as
to compare styles. At the moment there are four Australian wines offered
by the glass ? Massoni, Rosemount, Shaw & Smith and d'Arenberg.
The Rio's over?the?bar wine list is extensive
with 165 wines offered (150 by the glass), but there is a reserve list
which is part of their Napa Restaurant (one of 17 at the hotel).The cellar
list boasts 3,500 and has currently US $8.5m worth of stock to browse through
and everything you see is for sale. The Rio wine cellar is open 7 days
from 12 noon until midnight, and until 1.30am Fri & Sat. It appears
to be the only official wine bar in Vegas. From 12?2pm on Saturday this
is the place to be. It prides itself on it sales of bin ends etc. or you
may be able to bargain them down on the 1924 Rothchild Jeroboam going for
US$300.00.
If food and wine matching is more your style then
Vegas can offer some of the best names in the business. No longer a town
of just 'all you can eat' buffets, Vegas now has the top chefs and somelliers
from around the country - Julian Serrano of Picassos at the Bellagio Hotel
and Alessandro Stratta of Renoir at the Mirage Hotel, and Josef Kellar
of Josef’s Traditional Brasserie at Desert Passage at the Aladdin Hotel.
They all have their own philosophies, but the one thing that binds them
together is the French influence they all bring to their food – Julian
with his French/Spanish twist, Alessandro with his French /Italian twist,
and Josefs with his French/American Creole twist. Hey, this is what's making
Las Vegas exciting at the moment. In addition restaurants such as Picasso
and Renoir have original works of art worth millions to illuminate their
dining rooms.
Their wine lists, complementing their food and
philosophies, are just as exciting. Take Renior for example. Their eight
course degustation dinner fo US$95 is matched with eight international
wine including a glass of Rose Champagne all for US$55. A similar deal
at Picassos will cost US$85 and US$45 for the wine, and this is just the
beginning. Both the wine list at these hotels are extensive and Australia
fares well on both lists.
BYO is not the norm here in Vegas, although there
are many general/convenience stores (rather than liquor stores) which sell
all types of liquor. Generally speaking the selection was quite boring
and cheap American wines seemed to prevail. In many of the hotel/casinos
I visited (and I visited many) only four wines by the glass were offered.
Nearly all consisted of Chardonnay, Zinfandel (White, Rose or Red), Merlot
and Cabernet. Walking along the strip, it's common to see people drinking
beers, Marguerites from yard sticks. If you wish to leave one hotel and
go to another and happen to have a drink in your hand they are quite happy
to transfer it into a plastic container so you can take it with you to
the next hotel!
Whether you're wining or dining or both, Las Vegas
today is an enlightening experience to say the least. You must treat yourself
to either Renoir or Picassos while there and visit the Rio for a browse
and perhaps a tasting flight. Peep through the key?hole at Aureole to check
out the wine tower, not to mention the wine angel. Oh, and don't overlook
Josefs at Desert Passage at the Aladdin at one third of the price of all
the others. A great wine and food adventure awaits. Visit the Las Vegas
Convention and Visitors Authority (02 9328 5440) for further details on
Las Vegas visit www.lasvegasfreedom.com
United Airlines flies daily? from Sydney and Melbourne
to San Francisco and Los Angeles with frequent departures for the 40 minute
flight to Las Vegas.
National
Liqour News - August 2001
Hazel Murphy - our Lady in London
On a recent visit to London I caught up with
Australian Wine Bureau chief, Hazel Murphy. We discussed her role as bureau
chief for the promotion of Australian wines in UK & Europe.
JM Tell
me how you became our representative in UK.
HM I worked for the Australian Trade
Commission assisting in the exporting of any retail products in 1979, and
in 1982 I wrote a paper suggesting wine, food, and fashion would be very
important exports to the UK from Australia. Before you know it, Rosemount
and Jacob's Creek launched in '84. In 1985 the Australian wine importers
got together to do a presentation for the 7 wineries to the London Wine
Fair on the necessity of generic promotion. The price for a PR company
was £250000 and I jokingly offered my services 50,000 pounds to run
the promotional program. Nine companies got together to fund 40,000 pounds
to guarantee my salary for the first two years.
JM How
many Australian wineries export to the UK and how is the funding
derived at to promote Australian wines to this market?
HM Funding comes in several
forms ? a grape levy for AWBC and then an Export Levy which guarantees
that everyone in the office has a salary and office space. Also in each
key market, there is a promotional program which has to be sold to individual
companies; and a membership fee is charged, where the little guys pay one
group membership and the big guys pay much larger membership. We have between
45?50 members. Some countries like Chile and France (through Sopexa) are
supported by their governments or regions.
JM Australian
wines have had tremendous success over the past 10 years and continue to
be successful. Today who are our main competitors from the so called “New
World'?
HM According to Oz Clark, “New World'
is a state of mind”. Our competitors are beer and coolers such as
Barcardi Breezers, as well as wine producing countries like Argentina,
France, and Italy if they ever get their act together! However the real
challenge for Australia is to maintain quality at competitive prices. Within
five years more wines are going to come on stream from many countries,
even the National Association of Pharmacists are investing in grape growing!
There will be a global surplus at some point and Australia must manage
that situation.
JM What
promotional avenues are used to bring Australian wines to the attention
of the British consumer (including press, in store promotions, trade shows
etc)?
HM The whole basis of our campaign
is to put glasses into people's hands. Let them taste it! Events may not
be wine orientated. We reach about 60,000 people a year and work with many
companies. It is a matter of reinventing yourself all the time to keep
the wines in the public eye. At the moment we are trying universities and
holding tastings on campus to get through to the 18?25 year olds.
JM What
do British consumers look for when buying Australian wines? What styles
of wine, apart from Chardonnay and Shiraz, are British consumers buying?
Are they brand loyal?
HM Consumers are not fascinated by
wine, they buy wine to enjoy it. About 75 per cent of wine sold in the
UK is bought on recommendations. If it's on the BBC Food programme with
Oz Clark (with 6m viewers) it will sell out. They will remember where they
read about a wine, but can't remember who said it or who wrote it. How
do you manage that surplus, that is the question? The weakness of the Australian
dollar will help. The Australian wine industry is also a very cohesive
industry, no other country works so well together as Australia does. There
is also a huge diversity of grape varieties, climates and winemaking styles
with wines costing anything from 3 to 30 pounds. Consumers can work their
way up in quality and styles. Australia's strength is its personality,
styles and the consumer loves Australia ? long may they do so!
JM With
ever increasing competition from other New/Old world producers, what can
we do to increase future sales of Australian wine in the all important
UK market?
HM We actually have a limited
share in on?trade sales (equivalent to on?premise) in pubs, restaurants,
clubs and hotels etc. There is an 18 percent growth in on?trade sales,
Australia has 13 per cent of that growth from a zero base. However 60 percent
of on?trade outlets do not sell Australian wine. Only certain distributors
sell to those on?traders, because it requires special systems and the ability
to deliver small amounts. Also, you must remember there are 47 supplying
countries to the UK.
JM Also
the popular 'wine flights', which are organised via your office for journalists
and trade ? how effective are they?
HM The very first flight I did in
1992 was a great success (I took 110 people) which no one has managed to
repeat. I am organising another one for next year, now they are done every
two years. The next flight in 2002 will have between 30?35 people, which
will include journalists and the Dutch and Belgan somelliers. As for their
effectiveness ? well after the first one, sales rose 77 per cent in the
UK but I do not think we can really attribute all the growth to Wine Flight!
What it does is educate the buyer, journalist or sommelier. It means that
they experience at first hand the place, people and wines which, I believe,
is very important. They have ownership of what they are selling or writing
about and it creates long term loyalty.
JM What
advice would you give to small Australian producers who wish to export
their wines to the UK?
HM Basically, the most important
thing they have to appreciate is that their wines may not achieve the price
they think they should in the competitive export world. They have to listen
to the people in the market. If they don't listen, they won't export. It
is so important to work out why they want to export and why now; what has
convinced them to choose a particular market and what their strategy is.
Also they have to offer commitment to be there for the long haul. In the
end, the market they choose may not turn out to be right for them. It does
not happen overnight ? the whole world is not sitting waiting for the Australian
wine industry to knock on its door! However in the mature markets those
with the quality and the right price can succeed.
JM Besides
tastings for both consumers and trade, how else do you educate the British
public about Australian wines? Are there any formal or informal courses
one can take to learn more about Australian wines?
HM. We used to run the Australian wine
course (there are only four of us in our office) and that was successful
for the time. We are soon to start up a website to provide information
to the wine clubs in the UK and all consumers interested. At the moment
we produce an Australian wine newsletter which goes out to 4,000 consumers
in the UK. We will also produce a European newsletter.
JM. Are
the British public as concerned about terroir and regionality as we are
led to believe?
HM 90 per cent are not interested
in terroir or regionality, but we will sell it to them. Although regionality
will come in the long run.
JM Finally,
how are Australian wines going in the increasingly expanding European market?
HM Germany is the only market which
is increasing by about 3 per cent. All the other wine producing markets
are going backwards. Denmark is growing and has good potential, but is
a very small market. The Swiss are drinking expensive Australian wine,
the average price is $5.95 per litre FOB (at point of export).They drink
50 litres per head, per year. The Germans for instance import 11 billion
litres and produce 9 billion litres. Australia at present is 0.6 per cent
of the market. France ? You're looking at ten years down the track, but
at the moment their young people are drinking beer and spirits and I believe
they will go back to wine, perhaps Australian. Ireland imports 7 million
litres for only 3.4m people, who drink mainly Guinness or beer. It really
is a new wine drinking country and they are seriously interested in wine.
At the moment 1,200 people in Ireland are doing the 'British Wine &
Spirit Trust' courses.
It seems to me that the paper Hazel wrote in
1979 was the best thing she ever did. What's more, Australia had the good
fortune to follow it up which, in turn, was the best thing we ever did.
She gave us a great advantage over our competitors at a time when the British
public were still hooked on Claret and Laski Riesling. There's no doubt
about it, Hazel is still full of energy and enthusiasim for her job after
all these years. No doubt it's been a long hard slog to bring Australian
wines up to the dizzy export heights it enjoys today, but it's the challenge
of what tomorrow brings that counts. Hazel Murphy is certainly the one
best equipped to meet that challenge head on!
Education
Feb 14, 2001
GSM seeks opportunities
DOB: 1998. I am one of a family of three brothers - myself, Balmoral
and Mountain Blue and one sister, Roxburgh. The first GSM (Grenache Syrah
Mourvedre) was born in McLaren Vale SA in 1994. I'm led to believe from
my parents, the Oatley family of Hunter Valley, that I was born because
I represent a traditional combination of grape varieties prevalent in the
South of France, the Rhone Valley to be precise.
Parents: I was cared for from harvest to bottle by my step-parent, winemaker
Philip Shaw, whose list of credits for making wine knows no bounds. He
was recently awarded the Robert Mondavi Trophy for Winemaker of the Year
2000.
Address: Although I come from McLaren Vale, South Australia I can trace
my ancestry back to Iran, Spain and France. I usually reside in Australia
but I have such an international following that I can be found in bottle
shops, supermarket chains and restaurants the world over, in particular
UK, USA, Canada and so on. However, I feel most comfortable in your home
or wherever I'm invited. Dinner parties and meeting new friends in restaurants
are my speciality. I just love the friendly convivial atmosphere.
Qualifications: I have many qualifications to my credit during my short
but colourful life on this earth, but one in particular is my pedigree.
I come from a long bloodlines of fine wines in the Rosemount portfolio
and my winemaker Philip Shaw has seen to it that my heritage stays in tact.
That's why I have 50 per cent Grenache, 40 per cent Syrah and 10 per cent
Mourvredre.
Work Experience: My popularity around Australia and the world is due
to my parents. They had big plans for me when I was born. I am now standing
on my own two feet and establishing my own credibility. With your help
I hope to grow even bigger than my brothers and sisters.
Personality: I have, like you, a personality all of my own. I am prone
to go crimson in colour when people say how beautiful I look and sometimes
turn purple around the edges with embarrassment at all, I will change in
colour as I get older. They also tell me I put on too much aftershave
when I'm about to go out to dinner. "You smell of blackberries, blueberries,
with a whiff of old spice, your make-up is quite complex. The girls and
most probably the guys will be after you tonight. Can't you tone it down?'
But I am who I am. I'm really quite a dish, everything you could want from
a man. I'm tall, handsome and full bodied. For example, you can taste the
savoury oak in me when your lips meet mine. My tongue (palate) is extremely
flavoursome showing plummy, dark cherry fruit with heaps of tannins and
oak. In other words, I have depth with a gorgeous body (even if I do say
so myself) full and muscular of course. I come packed with fruit, a little
sweet, rich and terribly complex with wood and tannins as part of my make-up.
I can go the distance with any other fullbodied male in the Rosemount family
or any other family for that matter. However it's you I prefer to go the
distance with. I can linger on the palate long after others have shot through.
I like a good steak, am saucy and prefer to dine with one or two regular
girlfriends Diane or Pepper with whom I happen to blend with quite well.
I'm not really into Chinese, Thai or Korean but I'm always willing to try
anything once. There I go blushing again! Anyway I must go, it's time to
party. Oh by the way, I'm quite affordable at $30 but my price is sure
to increase as time goes by, so pick me up or lay me down for 5 to 8 years
- whatever, I'm really easy going, like I said, I can be found in restaurants,
wine bars, bottle shops or on the web. I'm all yours!
References: GSM is the life and soul of any dinner party. I can be taken
to any restaurant and my pedigree, well my surname, Rosemount, will open
many doors. The pleasure has been all mine. Bye for now - GSM.
Traveltrade - Jan 24 2001
Gourmet's Vegas: hold the chips
Las Vegas - the culinary capital of the USA?
Well perhaps not quite. Although it may as well be, with some of the
top names and restaurants in the country now residing there.
Vegas has come a long way from the days of the all-you-can-eat buffet
for $2.99. Today the city is hip and the place to dine out in style.
Take for example the 116-seat Picasso's restaurant in the Bellagio Hotel
and Casino, where guests can dine surrounded by an extensive collection
of original Picasso artworks valued at up to USD60 million.
The restaurant is on the ground floor and opens onto a 4.5-hectare lake
complete with dancing fountain.
Chef Julian Serrano offers an elegant French cuisine seasonally prepared
with a hint of Spanish influence, and clients can choose a 'prix fixe'
(at USD75) or 'menu degustation' for USD85 (advise clients to try the Fillet
of Florida Snapper with tomato, basil and garlic confit from the degustation
menu).
The average bill, including wine, is around USD130.
Renoir, another top fine-dining restaurant in the Mirage Hotel and Casino,
follows a Louise XV-style setting with pastels, bright colours and soft
furnishings, not to mention more than USD30 million of original Renoir
paintings including 'Lady in Blue'.
Italian born chef Alessandro Stratta combines his love of Italian and
French cuisine to produce simple but elegant food and offers both degustation
and tasting menus for USD95 with suggested wines for USD55. There is also
a vegetable tasting menu for USD65 with suggested wines for USD40.
The tasting menu offers Seared Fois Gras with peppered pineapple, coriander
and aged balsamic vinegar. Stratta considers himself "a trade person not
an artist" but his culinary work is not only a work of art but sublime
food served in the most professional manner.
Moving down a notch, clients could try Josef's Brasserie in the Desert
Passage at the Aladdin Hotel.
Modelled on a traditional French brasserie, Josef's offers a lively,
informal ambience within the confines of a make-believe but truly authentic
setting.
The fare is traditional brasserie style - lamb, beef, mussels and rotisserie
chicken, French onion soup and French fries.
The service, together with the ambience is second to none, as is the
food at a fraction of the price of Picasso's or Renior's.
If clients want a completely change from fine dining and brasserie-type
fare and they appreciate spicy food, tell them to try Anasazi of Santa
Fe, also situated in the Aladdin's Desert Passage. Here contemporary western
cuisine has been married with native American and colonial Spanish and,
dare I say it, an American cowboy influence.
Although set in a fine dining environment, the food is served in a similar
way to a traditional Chinese restaurant (all dishes placed in the centre
of the table).
The Diablo Shrimp with griddled corn cakes and avocado relish was delectable
at USD14.
Finally, Royal Star at the Venetian Resort Hotel and Casino offers traditional
Chinese of the highest standard. The Hu Nan Chicken with black beans, wood
ear mushrooms in a light soy glaze is a steal at USD18.
All the major hotels have top Chinese restaurants to attract their Asian
clients but nothing tops Royal Star which was voted best Asian restaurant
on 'the Strip' for 2000.
After dining at all the best restaurants during my stay as well as the
infamous all-you-can-eat at the Rio (it costs a bit more these days) I
can confirm that in the 20 years since my last visit Vegas has changed
enormously as far as cuisine is concerned.
In order to attract not only the high rollers but their spouses and
the visitors who do not gamble, it has had to reinvent itself.
It has done so with gusto.
I leave the last word on the matter to Alessandro Stratta of Renior:
"Las Vegas is not quite the culinary capital of the USA, but it's sure
on its way."
I couldn't agree more.
National Liquor News - August 2000
The Road to La Mancha
La Mancha lies 200 km south east of Madrid, a comfortable two hours
drive, or one hour on the fast train to Ciudad Real. La Mancha as
you may well know is the biggest wine region in all of Spain. It is noted
more for its cheap wine and to say wine is plentiful is an understatement
in the extreme. La Mancha has always played the poor relation to its northerly
cousins La Rioja and to a lesser extent Navarra and plans are afoot to
change the rules in La Mancha which could threaten the livelihoods of many.
La Mancha is situated in the southern half of Spain on the Mesta plain.
Nearly 8 million hectares (80,000 square km to be exact) make up the five
provinces - Albacete, Ciudad Real, Cuenca, Guadalajara and Toledo. It also
encompasses four DO's (Denominaciones de Origen - the Spanish equivalent
of the French AC which guarantees the geographical origin of the wine).
They are Mentrida, La Mancha, Valdepenas and Almansa.There are 291 wineries
under the denomination of origin La Mancha. As elsewhere in Spain it's
the small growers with their tiny plots of land who hold sway and the whole
region has nearly 18,000 of them - growers with family plots which have
been passed down from one generation to the other. Harvest takes place
starting the first fortnight in August and finishes in the middle of October.
Both the '98 and '99 harvests were excellent and the hope is that 2000
will follow suit. Each small town celebrates the harvest in their own way
as harvest time varies from town to town.
The Castilla La Mancha (the five provinces) produce between them 50%
of all the wine made in Spain, about 18 million hl and is home to the Tempranillo,
Moravia, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Garnacha (Grenache) grapes
in the red department and the Viura, Pardilla, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc
and Airen in the white, the latter white grape dominating production. Much
of the grapes produced here are used for Spanish Brandy. Quality is improving
resulting from new trellising systems, plant and equipment, quality control
and much more . Besides local consumption, which is high, it is the export
markets which drive the wines of La Mancha. During 1999 257,028 hectolitres
were exported. France is the main importer of wines from La Mancha receiving
a whopping 121,195 hl, followed by the UK with 51,996 hI, Germany 30,336
hl, Sweden (one Australia's growing markets) 13,065 hl, Japan 1,821 hl
and finally Australia 270 hI.
According to European Union experts who compiled the Markets Common
Organisation (MCO) report, "There is a surplus of 800,000 hectares (nearly
2 million acres) of vineyards in the fifteen countries in the EU, of which
around 50% lies in some part of La Mancha, Valencia, Aragon or Extremadura".
It's just a matter of time before up-rooting begins on a big scale which
will be a massive undertaking by many. However those who can envisage what
the future holds are readily advancing in ripping up old unwanted varieties
and planting new noble ones, and it's not just new vines, it's newfound
knowledge by those who are willing to travel the world (Australia included)
to further their education and understanding of new and old world viticultural
techniques. It is the Consejo Regulador head quartered in the main town
of Alcazar de San Juan in Ciudad Real, established in 1966, who make policy
for this region. The issue of overplanting has occurred many times over
the years, most recently in 1993 when a special commission was instituted
to report on the issue of rationalisation. It was not until 1996 that the
Consejo replied recommending some reduction in the La Mancha region whilst
also opening the door to the planting of new grape varieties and types
of wine.
Geologically, Castilla La Mancha is as 'flat as a tack'. From north,
east, south and west it is bounded by rivers and mountains, size and altitude
count for nothing against the region being windswept during the winter.
The climate here is described as continental, extremely cold during the
winter months (has fallen to -22 c) and extremely hot during the summer
(average 40 c) although the famous windmills which are dotted throughout
the entire region help airflow together with the moderating influences
of the Rio Tajo in the north and the Rio Guadiana in the south. Soils vary
throughout the region from red-brown sandy clay in the north to limestone
and chalk elsewhere. The average sunshine hours are around 8.5 per day,
365 days a year! Rain obviously is minimal at around 350-400mm. Diseases
and pests are virtually non-existent due to the variance in the weather
which is more often than not 'dry as a bone'.
To the north of La Mancha around Guadalajara it is approximately 700m
above sea level, to the south around Zancara it is about 500m. Driving
between the two towns all you can see are sleepy idyllic villages where
all the buildings are whitewashed. As quickly as you drive into town you're
out the other side and stretched before you are the vast open plains of
La Mancha, row upon row of vines as far as the eye can see. No fences,
no walls to mark boundaries just long dusty roads boarded on either side
by endless vines spread out against distant mountain ranges and sleepy
little towns. The towns are particularly sleepy between the hours of 1.30-3-3.30pm.
As I have stated previously in past articles on Spain, the size of the
bodegas from the outside can be deceptive. It's what's hidden underground
that matters. What can look like a lived-in ranch or hacienda with winery
and offices attached is impressive enough, but underground is another world.
Some of the most important wineries in the La Mancha region (based on size
and export market )are Bodegas Ayuso, Vinicola de Castilla, Altosa, Grandes
Vinos S.L. and a couple of the big cooperatives - Nuestro Padre Jesus del
Perdon and Nuestra Senora de Manjavacas.
One couldn't imagine many, if in fact any of the 18,000 growers, giving
up on their tiny plots of land which have been handed down from generation
to generation. The appeasement of the EU mandarins is not, so it seems,
in the European psyche. One only has to look at the French farmers and
lorry drivers to see a good fight! Reports and recommendations come
and go, but the land holders of La Mancha have been there for generations.
While changes in some regions are slowly underway, it will be two or three
years before the tenacity and versatility of the La Mancha wine growers
can be judged.
Shire
Life - May 1999
Jim
Barry Wines of Clare
The beautiful region of Clare is situated in South
Australia, 130km north of Adelaide. It is a region of immense charm, beauty
and tranquillity and is noted the world over for its rieslings. One in
particular is Jim Barry rieslings.
Established in 1959 this winery is a family winery
in every sense of the word with Dad, three brothers and a sister running
every aspect of winery operations. Jim Barry wines are one of the major
growers and producers in Clare. The Barry family have, over the years,
significantly expanded their grape supply through both planting and vineyard
purchases. In 1986 Jim Barry wines purchased the famed Florita vineyard,
source of the great Leo Buring rieslings of the 60's and 70's. This is
the vineyard where legendary winemaker John Vickery sourced the grapes
for Leo Buring during this period.
Recently I had the chance to taste a number of
rieslings from Jim Barry which included the Jim Barry Watervale '98, Watervale
'94, and the '89 Watervale. The 1980 I have reserved for another time and
place for some special Riesling fans to enjoy with other wines of the same
ilk. I admit to being a little biased here as riesling is my favourite
wine style. The difference in colour and palate of the three wines is immediate
and distinct in every sense of the word. The colour of the '98, for example,
is pale straw with green hues around the edge of the glass; the nose is
reminiscent of lemon and limes whilst the palate is soft citrusy flavours
together with passionfruit overtones and a firm acid finish. The '94 however
is slightly golden and more perfumed on the nose; the palate is a little
more complex with a toasty mouthfeel together with limes and soft acids
on the finish. The '89 is, by all accounts, more sublime with a darker
yet golden colour; the nose is rich, full of aromatic citrusy, perfumed
characters. The palate is intense citrusy, passionfruit with hints of kerosene
which is enviable in aged rieslings and with softer acids giving way to
a lingering and persistent finish. The '98 retails for $12, the '94 at
$14 and the '89, if available, for about $20-22. All the above wines come
from a very good pedigree and will age with grace and flavour for anything
up to 10-15 years - not bad for the price you pay.
Time is fast approaching when riesling will be
back in favour gaining its rightful place amongst the top varietal wines
of the world, and tasting these rieslings from Jim Barry it's not hard
to see why!
Shire
Life - July 1999
Go west or stay in the Shire
for Cape Mentelle Wines!
The Margaret River is situated 275km south of Perth in an area of unspoilt
beauty. It is here you'll find Cape Mentelle vineyards where winemaker
John Durham puts the finishing touches to his beautifully crafted and highly
sought after wines. Cape Mentelle was established in 1970 by ledgendary
winemaker David Hohnen who, with Kevin Judd NZ winemaker of Cloudy Bay,
combined to make a force to be reckoned with in both countries. The 1997
Cloudy Bay Chardonnay is one shining example of Judd's craft. However it
is Durham who has crafted the following excellent examples of Cape Mentelle
wines.
It would be fair to say Cabernet Sauvignon reigns supreme here as it
has eversince the rennaisance of the region in the early seventies. In
particular I refer to two wines from the Cape Mentelle stable both red
- Cabernet Merlot Trinders Vineyard 1997 and the Shiraz 1997.
The CM Cabernet Merlot 1997 displays a deep purple colour, the nose
is a complex mixture of fruit and oak with hints of chocolate. The palate
is rich, with well integrated tannins evident. The fruit consisting of
dark berry, cassis, plummy, spicy flavours is soft yet powerful, with promise
of more to come as it slowly matures. The wine finishes firm and dry with
lingering mouth appeal. RRP $24.90
The 1997 Cape Mentelle Shiraz is a different kettle of fish altogether!
Rich deep purple with red hues around the edges, the nose is more up-front
with strong hints of violets and peppery spice in abundance. The palate
is richly textured, but spicy, slightly earthy tannins exist. The palate
is awash with black cherry fruit, sweet plums and blackberries. The wine
has grip with firm acids displaying a mouthpuckering lingering finish.
In my view both wines would benefit from 4-7 years cellaring but if drinking
now would definitely recommend you match them with hearty red meat dishes.
RRP.$27
As you may be aware Cape Mentelle also makes the best Zinfandel (a Californian
grape variety) in Australia and because it is highly sought after none
was available for tasting - another place, another time!
Shire
Life - August 99
Rosemount and Philip Shaw go
hand in hand!
Philip Shaw has been the only winemaker at Rosemount since its inception
in 1989. His stamp on the Rosemount portfolio has been enormous to say
the least, with an ever expanding range of wines matched by an increase
in production now in excess of 1 million cases per year. Rosemount currently
has holdings in Orange, McLaren Vale, Coonawarra, Adelaide Hills and Mudgee
and continues to source premium quality fruit from a number of other districts
around the country.
While the marketing gurus have done an excellent job promoting Rosemount
wines both at home and abroad no amount of marketing could shift these
wines if the consistent quality wasn't there. Of course we all know it's
there from the entry point Split Label wines to the top of the range which
includes Balmoral Syrah in the red department and Roxborough Chardonnay
in the white.
On this occasion I bring you two old favourites from the Rosemount range
- the Rosemount '98 Traminer Riesling (RRP $9) and the 1996 Show Reserve
McLaren Vale Shiraz (RRP $27).
Rosemount Traminer Riesling 1998 - The colour here is pale straw with
green hues around the edges. The nose is rich and complex with spicy, tropical
fruit combined with subtle citrusy hints. The palate is fresh and lively
with spicy lychee flavours dominant. This is backed by floral citrusy overtones
which add to the complexity of marrying these two grape varieties together.
These combine to give a lasting sweetness on the palate together with balanced
acidity and a clean, crisp lingering finish. A wine which would go well
with some chinese dishes such as honeyed chicken and sweet & sour pork.
Rosemount Show Reserve McLaren Vale Shiraz 1996 - The colour of this
wine is intense deep red with purple hues around the edges. The nose is
oozing blackberry fruit with spicy characters showing through, together
with slightly sweet vanillan lingering in the background. The palate is
rich with layer upon layer of fruit, minty, chocolaty nuances combined
with spicy oak, well integrated tannins and firm acids adding to the structure.
This wine has grip and finishes firm with a long lingering finish. This
wine exemplifies all that the people at Rosemount wish to achieve, ie quality
fruit, consistency and value for money. This wine has the potential to
age for another 10 years. It's your call!
For the readers who wish to know more about matching wine and food,
the people at Rosemount have come up with a Wine Wheel which is similar
to the world famous 'Aroma Wheel' developed by Anne Nobel et al at UC Davis
California. The Wine Wheel will be given away free (with the purchase of
two bottles of Rosemount wines) and gives you information on the taste
and flavour of Rosemount wines, a brief resume of winemaking notes and
matches food to the wines. It takes consumers through 13 of Rosemount's
wines from the Diamond blends through Diamond varietals and some of its
Reserve range. It a handy wheel to have for those who seek to better understand
wine aromas and flavours. Rosemount are also giving away a free 37 minute
video with any purchase of four Diamond varietal wines.
Shire
Life - Sept 99
A top Italian selection from
Gavagna
It's not often we hear about Italian wines and what it is they have
to offer. Italy, together with France, is one of the world's biggest producers
of wine producing in excess of 60 million hectolitres or 1,584 million
gallons of wine annually. There are, in fact, over 2,000 native or indigenous
vines planted across the whole of Italy. The country has been described
as one big vineyard stretching from the Alps in the north to the islands
in the south and all points in between. It would be fair to state that
when Italians drink wine, food is part of the ritual. Very little gets
consumed without some form of food whether it be olives, olive oil, bread
or salami.
Recently I caught up with Cesare Boschis of Borgogono wines, producer
of the world renowned Piemontese Borgogno Barolo, who was in town to show
his wines to the assembled paparazzi. Ten wines were tasted between the
1952-1993 vintages followed by a truly memorable lunch at Bel Mondo, the
famous Italian restaurant at The Rocks. Cesare Boschis took us through
a tutoured tasting of his Barolos, quite extraordinary wines of which I
preferred the '78 and '93 vintages, particularly the latter. The 1993 Borgogno
Barolo was brick red in colour. The nose was rich and complex, neither
fruit nor oak were evident. The palate was something else - rich, complex,
with refined fruit tannins and a slight sharpness, being acid, showing
through on the middle palate. The wine displayed a long lingering dry finish.
The winemaker surprised us with a bottle of his 1947 Vintage Barolo, carried
by hand. 1947 was considered the vintage of the decade. At 15.5% alcohol
it was a big wine and was drinking superbly. An unforgetable experience.
Lunch featured the '98 Mastrobcrardino Lacryma Christi Bianco which
was young and fresh with abundant fruit and was a perfect match for the
Potato Gnocchi with burnt butter, parmesan and sage. The main dish consisting
of Osso Bucco was washed down with the Bolla Amarone '93, not quite the
perfect accompaniment - the Osso Buco overpowering the wine. The selection
of blue vein and goats cheese and quince was matched with the Brolio Chianti
Classico Riserva '93. The biscotti was served with the Brolio Vin Santo
'94. On instruction we dunked the biscotti into the Vin Santo which was
exquisite.
There are a few other Italian wines which I should bring to your attention.
The first two of these wines are from vineyards of Mastroberardino which
are situated inland of Mount Vesuvius in the Campania region.
Lacryma Christi Del Vesuvio Rosso 1995: The colour is brick red. The
nose smells of slight oak. The palate is dry with soft well interwoven
tannins, the sweet, ripe berry fruit is soft and velvety which has been
helped along by bottle maturation. The wine finishes dry and mouthfilling.
Recommended to go with red meats, bolognaise or a cold collation of meats.
RRP $20.
Lacryma Christi Del Vesuvio Bianco Secco 1994: A golden coloured wine
showing some bottle age. The nose is complex, hard to distinguish from
fruit or oak if any. The palate is dry and fresh with soft well rounded
acids which are fading. The fruits in the wine such as rockmelon and pineapple
give way to a dry lingering finish. Ideal accompaniment to a marinara dish
or bread and olive oil. RRP $17.50.
Another Italian wine called Vernaccia di San Gimignano Bianco 1997 is
a Falchini label. This dry, slightly floral, perfumed nose gives way to
a crisp and acidic palate. The fruit on the palate is refreshing but hard
to identify. I detected faint peach and fig overtones but the exact characteristics
of the fruit itself are hard to define. The wine would lend itself to antipasto
or a creamy pasta dish. RRP $16.
Some of these wines can be found at good wine stores in the Shire, for
the others call Gavagna Australia on 02 9518 4370.
Education - August
3, 1999
Barwang Shiraz from McWilliam's.
The McWilliam's name is one that seems to have been around for centuries,
well it has, being first established in the Riverina district of NSW in
1877. Today the McWilliam's clan has holdings in the Yarra Valley in Victoria,
Riverina, Hunter Valley and the Hilltops region centred around Young in
southern NSW.
McWilliam's purchased a 400 acre property from local farmer Peter Robertson
in 1989 who had planted the Barwang vineyard some 20 years earlier. The
rest as they say is history. McWilliam's has never looked back. The quality
of the fruit from this region is exceptional and has proved a considerable
bonus to McWilliam's in producing quality red wine, not to mention numerous
medals and trophies being awarded to the Barwang range of wines.
My pick is the McWilliam's Barwang 1997 Shiraz. The colour is deep crimson
with purple hues around the edges. The nose is spicy with liquorice/aniseed
aromas. The palate is by all accounts a little puckerish with oak and tannins
more than prevalent. The fruit is a little masked with hints of blackcurrants,
plummy, spicy flavours with violets showing through and becoming stronger
as the wine opened up. The wine finishes long and firm on the middle palate
with tannins dominating the finish.
This wine has the potential to age, if cellared well, for up to 8-10
years. Other wines from the Barwang stable waiting to be tasted are the
'97 Chardonnay and the '97 Cabernet Sauvignon. The Barwang range is priced
from $18-20.
Also making a name for itself in the McWilliam's stable is one from
their Lillydale vineyards in the Yarra Valley. This warm climate region
is were Pinot Noir is held aloft although other styles such as Merlot,
Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer are also made to varying degrees of success.
However, the Pinot Noir is good, perhaps not the best pinot Noir I've tasted,
but good nevertheless.
The 1998 Lillydale Vineyards Pinot Noir displays a lively red/crimson
colour with hints of strawberry/plummy fruit on the nose. The palate is
fresh and lively with strawberries and plums combined with cedary oak,
together with a touch of spice. A good wine if you want nothing too complex
from your Pinots. It's definitely worth a try. The Lillydale range is priced
from $16-18.
Education
- August 16, 1999
It's all happening in the Riverina
I've tasted a number of wines from the Riverina region of NSW
over the past couple of months. Here is an odd but interesting selection:
The first features an image of a White Pointer shark on the inside of
the back of the label that appears after a certain time in the fridge.
Known as the 'White Pointer' from Miranda wines, it uses thermo-reactive
inks on wine labels which indicate the precise temperature at which the
wine should be consumed. 'White Pointer' has a wrap around label to create
a 3D effect and when the wine is chilled below 12°c, a shark appears
in the background. The wine is a generic blend of grapes which include
Chenin Blanc, Muscat and Colombard. An easy drinking wine of no great complexity,
fresh and fruity. Just the go while preparing dinner. For $6 what more
do you want.
Miranda has also released a slightly fizzy red (served chilled) called
'Valentino'. Suave packaging and an odd fruit combination give this wine
a little sophistication, the combination being Cabernet Franc and Malbec
fruit sourced from north east Victoria and Miranda's winery in the Barossa.
Again easy drinking with strawberry, cherry, plummy flavours on the palate.
Nothing too complicated, but highly recommended with Thai, Indian, Chinese
dishes. Though I must say I can't get used to drinking red wines cold!
RRP $12.
I much preferred the Miranda High Country Cabernet Franc/Malbec '97
known as the 'Dark Horse' range. A complex richly textured wine with long
fruit driven tannins. If you take my advice let Miranda keep experimenting
with the Valentino and you go for the "Dark Horse' which comes highly recommended.
RRP $12.
Still in the Riverina and one winery where there is quality aplenty
is Westend wines. Their Sauvignon Blanc 1999 in particular, is a stunner.
I nearly always recommend NZ Sauvignon Blancs as I find them more herbaceous
and grassy coming from cold climate districts to where they are best suited.
But not on this occasion - the Westend 1999 Sauvignon Blanc is a youthful
wine with slightly lemony/lime flavours on the palate, fresh with soft
acids and ever so slightly herbaceous. A delicate, refreshing wine ready
to be drunk now and as with nearly all wines from Westend it is quality
in a bottle at RRP $10.
Last but by no means least comes Casella Yendah Vale Chardonnay/Merlot.
The dash of merlot is an extremely odd addition, however it's quite a pleasant
change. Yendah Vale Chardonnay/Merlot is a light salmon pink colour. On
the palate the wine is fresh, fruity, slightly spicy and must (unless you
like a Rosé straight) be accompanied by food. The wine has been
rejected by no fewer than five wine shows because the judges don't deem
the wine a Chardonnay. Try it and see what you think. RRP $12.
My good friend Paul Foley, Manager of the Wine and Food Technology Centre,
the Riverina Institute of TAFE Griffith Campus, is offering a range of
short courses in wine. These are Wine Appreciation, together with Certificate
courses in Food Laboratory Techniques, Certificate in Food Processing Wine,
and Wine Operations Viticulture. For all you 'winos' who live in the region
and wish to advance your knowledge and palate give him a call. Tel. 02
6962 0453
Adelaide Hills Calling!
For those of you who have enjoyed the Boutique Wine Shows then follow
me to the Adelaide Hills Wine Show to be held at The Renaissance Sydney
Hotel on Sat/Sun 18 & 19 Sept from 2-7pm. Cost pre-booked is $20, at
the door $25. For further details call Judith Kennedy on 02 9518 6937.
See you there!
Education
-August 13, 1999
Orlando Trio Plus One!
When it comes to wines Orlando Wyndham is up there as one of the top
big four wine companies in Australia, the others being Southcorp, Mildara
Blass and BRL Hardy. Its portfolio of wines spans across all types and
styles to suit all palates and pockets. A few that beg your indulgence
are:
The 1998 Richmond Grove Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from NZ. The nose
is distinctive Sauvignon Blanc characters but without the full-on herbaceousness
of its Kiwi cousins, with passionfruit and gooseberries aplenty on the
nose. The palate displays a zesty zing to it so that the herbaceous characters
so often found in NZ Sauvignons are somewhat subdued, however the passionfruit
and gooseberry adds to the enjoyment and drinkability of the wine. The
wine finishes firm with crisp acids. It would be ideal with prawns, smoked
trout and smoked salmon. RRP $15.
The 1997 Gramps Botrytis Semillon is a luscious desert style wine oozing
with apricots and marmalade together with a touch of spice. The palate
follows on from the nose, richly textured, soft and fruity. A wine that
will improve with age and is ideally suited to spicy paté or a rich
pudding.
RRP $13 (375mls).
Wyndham Estate 1828 range is a new line commemorating the founding year
of Australia's oldest winery. I bring you two wines from the 1998 vintage.
The first is Wyndham Estate 1998 Unwooded Chardonnay. This wine displays
plenty of chardonnay fruit, full bodied with refreshingly crisp, tangy
acids. The sensation in the mouth makes you take notice of what's in the
glass, a big mouthfeel, combined with long length of flavour to match.
Goes well with a fresh fruit plate. RRP $7-8.
The Wyndham Estate 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Ruby Cabernet
is a medium bodied wine packed with fruit flavours both on the nose and
palate. The wine is not complex by any manner or means, just a good everyday
drinking wine - fresh, soft, fruity, no airs and graces here. Ideal with
stews, 'bangers and mash' or lamb's fry. RRP $7-8.
Gramps Barossa Valley Grenache 1997. In case you haven't noticed more
and more Grenache is coming onto the market as a straight varietal. This
grape originated in Spain but has homes all over the new world and is planted
more and more around Australia in the Riverina, McLaren Vale and the Barossa
and many other wine regions. This particular wine exudes a rich, ripe,
red cherry/raspberry bouquet with a perfumed spicy nose. Complex oak lingers
in the background wanting you to keep smelling. The palate is rich, ripe
fruit with sweet plums dominating, spicy overtones and firm tannins will
further develop the wine adding to the complexity and flavour for a good
10 years. Who knows, by then Grenache may be as common as Shiraz. RRP $18.
****
'Tasting Australia' is a magnificent event bringing wine & foodies
from all over Australia and around the world for seven great days from
3-10 October in Adelaide. Right in the middle of our holidays! There is
so much on offer throughout the seven days featuring The Australian Regional
Culinary Competition; Seafood Soiree; Food & Wine sessions; Feast for
the Senses featuring Peter Howard and Don Hancey together with 'Consuming
Passions' chef Ian Parmentier. Plenty for the family to do and see in Adelaide
- it's all so close to the city. For further information contact Tasting
Australia
Tel. 08 9388 8877 or email:perth@tasting-australia.com.au
****
'Put a Cork In It' .....I'm sure you have noticed the plethora of plastic
coloured corks now available in ever increasing numbers in your wine bottles.
You obviously have because you have emailed me with some of your concerns
about them. Well, Portuguese cork makers, Amorim, who make the original
type of cork, have set up shop here in Australia, in Melbourne to be precise,
and are working flatout to up-grade the quality of their cork with state
of the art technology. This is a pre- cursor to an indepth report on cork
in the November issue of Education.
****
Education
- September 13, 1999
Mudgee Wine Show 1999
All those people slurping their way through three or four hundred wines
- looking, nosing, spitting and madly writing comments on each - what is
it all about? It's called show judging. There are many people who don't
give a fig about award winning wines, but there are just as many who follow
the wine show system from one show to another moving around the country.
There are, in fact, as many as twenty national and regional shows. A lot
of punters stock up and invest in award winning wines, quite often winemakers
themselves.
Well how does it all work and what does it really mean for you and me
the consumer? This year I was invited to judge as an associate at the Mudgee
Wine Show. This was my first official judging here in Australia and something
I've been working towards for the past six years by acting as steward at
The Royal Sydney Wine Show. Stewarding at a major show for five to six
years is regarded as a pre-requisite to putting your name forward to act
as an associate at national and regional shows. An 'associate' judge's
marks are not actually taken into account in the judging - it is more of
a learning experience for the 'associate'. The local wine show committee
together with the chairperson of judges decides, based on experience, whether
or not one's application is accepted.
Wine shows are a way of promoting the wines of a particular region.
Mudgee is a regional show and each show system has its own rules which
are decided upon by the local grape growers association or wine show committee.
The committee determines how many wine classes they are to have and how
many wines can be awarded with medals in each class. They also decide such
things as grape variety, age, style etc. Also how many judges, including
chairperson, and associate judges they are to have. The judge's job may
be for a set period, a rotating position, say every 3-5 years, or until
you snuff it, whichever comes sooner! No remuneration is paid to judges
or associates. Airfares, accommodation and meals for judges are paid for
but associates pay their own airfare.
All members of the local grape growers association are entitled and
encouraged to enter their wines into the show. It is a way of putting their
wines up against those of their peers, to be judged alongside them and
to receive recognition for their efforts.
At this year's Mudgee Wine Show there were three judges and two associates.
The Chairman was Karl Stockhausen, a delightful man who was senior winemaker
at Lindemans for nearly 30 years and is a regular show circuit wine judge
at major capital and regional shows. Dr Ray Healey is another senior show
circuit wine judge and between them they have 60 year's show judging experience.
The third judge was John Qarista, white wine maker at McWilliams Yenda
winery in the Riverina. My fellow associate was James Manners, assistant
winemaker at Montrose in Mudgee.
A total of 31 classes were judged with over 300 wines entered across
all classes. Some classes had as little as one wine, others had as many
as 30. Medals are awarded out of a possible 20 points: 3 for colour, 7
for nose and 10 for palate. If the wine reaches over 18.5 it is awarded
a Gold; Silver over 17 and Bronze over 15.5. If no wine scores above 15.5
then no medals are awarded. After each class is tasted the judges gather
round the chairperson who asks each judge for their marks and comments.
The marks are checked against other judges to see that they are consistent.
After tallying the marks, medals are awarded. When judging is complete
an exhibitors tasting is organised where the exhibitors come to check and
see if they have won any medals and look at other peoples wines. Winemakers
go from judge to judge to look at what scores their wines were given and
to read the judges' comments. Judges are on hand to answer any queries
regarding the marks and defend their comments. I thought it was an excellent
way of giving feedback.
Judging is a hard job by any standards. Ten hour days were the norm.
The judging room was deadly quiet, stewards ushered in and out bringing
us green apples, olives and plenty of water to assist our palates in remaining
fresh. Generally speaking judges do not clean their teeth during the judging
session. The teeth become covered in tannin and acid from the wine and
to clean them leaves a fluoride taste in the mouth impairing ones palate.
Also by cleaning them you can take off the enamel coating leaving you with
bare red teeth. Mouthwash is the go after a long day tasting.
The amount of acid and tannin you take into your mouth and stomach is
enormous. My back teeth were aching after three full days of tasting, my
stomach was churning from the acid, my teeth looked like a row of century
old tombstones but I held up and my marks were very consistent with the
other judges.
At the end of the day what does it all really mean to you and me and
the winemakers. Well firstly, if wines are sitting on a shelf in a bottle
shop with medals on them you can rest assured they have been judged alongside
their peers and have come out on top as one of the best wines in its class.
Many of the big wine companies rely on the show system to sell wines. Their
marketing and PR people go into overdrive and prices will often increase
after medals are awarded.
According to the Australia/EU wine agreement no Australian wine may
be exported to the EU with show judging medals attached to the labels if
the wines won such medals from country shows. Only those from recognised
national and capital shows may be exported. In the US, the American Bureau
of Alcohol, Firearms and Tobacco (ABAFT) have a very stringent and strict
criteria for Australian labels to enter the US. All labels must be submitted
to the Bureau before approval can be given to import a label.
For wine companies to have any of their winemakers judging at wine shows
is an honour and one that is not overlooked.
At the end of the day no matter what way you look at it - it's only
a wine, medal or no medal and it's a known fact that over 90% of all wine
bought is consumed within 24 hours of purchase. You know what you like
whether it be a $20 red or a $6 quaffer and Australians are very brand
loyal when it comes to buying wine.
Here are a few of my favourites from the show:
1999 Huntington Shiraz, gold medal winner. The wine displays abundant
varietal fruit both on the nose and palate. The wine is firm and intense
with good oak integration, acids and tannins are in balance and add to
a long complexity together with a long lingering finish.
Gooree Park 1999 Chardonnay, silver medal. An unknown quantity. Generous
amounts of varietal fruit both on the nose and palate, soft malolactic
characters are more than evident. Finishes firm and dry with good palate
weight and structure.
Andrew Harris 1998 Merlot, bronze medal. Excellent varietal fruit on
the nose which carried through to the palate with well integrated oak and
tannins. The finish was firm and lingering with a heavy concentration of
fruit.
There are many different types of places to eat and stay in Mudgee depending
on your budget and taste. A few places I recommend to stay are the Lawson
Park Hotel cnr Short & Church St. 02 6272 2183, Woolpack Hotel on Market
St. 02 6372 1908 or the more family orientated Country Comfort on Calliss
Rd
02 6372 4500.
I highly recommend the Wildwood Country Guesthouse situated on Henry
Lawson Drive about five minutes out of town heading north. The place just
oozes country living and can accommodate four couples with four double
size bedrooms including ensuites. There is a large eat-in kitchen, separate
dining room and a massive atrium-like lounge with log fire. Perfect if
you want to get away from it all. Call Anne and Robert on
02 6373 3701.
If you decide to stay at Wildwood or any other participating guesthouse
you can "dial a chef" not any chef, but an authentic French chef by the
name of Didier. He will bring the food to your property, prepare and serve
it. Didier did a magnificent job with the rib of beef and dijon crust.
He comes highly recommended. For a small country town Mudgee has a number
of excellent restaurants and cafes. Try Eltons Cafe on Market St. with
modesty being a speciality, tel. 02 6372 0772. The Craigmore restaurant
at Craigmore Rd, try the seafood chowder. 02 6372 4320. If Lebanese is
to your liking try Deeb's Kitchen opposite Huntington Estate. The prices
are unbelievably cheap, try the 'Showrama' - grilled thin strips of lamb
fillet on turkish bread at $10 and a Lebanese coffee. Cnr. Casillis Rd
and Buckaroo Lane, tel. 02 6373 3133. Last but by no means least is Troys
on Market St. The roast veal rump with fried silverbeet, pearl barley and
seed hollandaise is a must.
Unfortunately you will have missed the Mudgee Wine Festival before this
column goes to print, however that shouldn't stop you from picking up all
the information about Mudgee from the Mudgee Shire Council Tourist office
at 68 Market St. tel.
02 6372 5875 or email:tourist@mudgee.nsw.gov.au. Ask for the Mudgee
Gulgong Wine book. All the wineries are open a minimum of six days a week
and some seven. My recommendations for a winery visit are: Botobolar, Steins,
Pieter Van Gents, Miramar, Abercorn and Montrose.
National
Liquor News - April 1999
Canadian Ice Wines!
We don't think of Canada as a wine producing country - too cold during
the winter, too hot in summer. However conditions are ideal for producing
both table wines and ice wines, the latter of which have put Canada on
the world wine map or as Canadians would say are Canada's best kept secret.
So what is an ice wine? Ice wine is a wine made predominantly from late
maturing vidal and riesling grapes which are left on the vine well after
the northern harvest until late December, early January and sometimes much
later. The correct temperature for picking is minus 8°c, the temperature
required to freeze the grapes, but most wineries pick at minus 10. The
original ice wine comes from Germany and is of the highest Qualitatswein
mit Pradikat (QmP) classification. But more on this later.
The Canadian wine industry dates back to the first labrusca vines which
were found growing along the banks of the Credit River west of Toronto
in 1811. However it wasn't until 1866 that Canada's first major vineyard
was established on Pelee Island in Lake Erie in the extreme far south of
the province of Ontario. Pelee Island is, in fact, closer to America than
it is to Canada and enjoys a longer growing season than any other Canadian
wine region. Today only two vineyards are situated on the Island.
Grape vines are only grown in four out of the ten provinces that stretch
across Canada from Quebec, Nova Scotia and Ontario in the east to British
Columbia and the Oakanagan Valley in the west. I am reliably informed that
Quebec and Nova Scotia don't add up to much in terms of quantity or quality.
From the early 18th century through to the late 19th century the Canadian
wine industry has only grown marginally, from 40 odd in 1890 to slightly
over 100 today, 35 of which are situated in the Niagara-On-Lake region
in the province of Ontario. This area therefore is the powerhouse of the
Canadian wine industry and is 30 minutes drive south of Niagara Falls.
Niagara-on-the-Lake has been named on many occasions as the prettiest town
in all of Canada. The wineries are scattered around this area and along
Lake Ontario heading north to Toronto. Lake Ontario adds a moderating influence
over the vineyards, the pine trees dotted along the Niagara Escarpment
help the vines by protecting them from the south easterly winds.
In the 70's and 80's the Canadian wine industry was a major importer
of cheap plonk which, when Canadian grape spirit was added, was then labelled
"Product of Canada". It is now a country where quality Canadian wine is
of the highest standard since the introduction of Vintners Quality Alliance
or VQA which was formally established in 1988. This is Canada's 'Appellation
of Origin' system. VQA stipulates minimum must weights but not minimum
yields.
Today the Canadians have planted more and more vinifera varieties such
as Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc etc. The Chardonnays and Rieslings
I tasted were exceptional, the Sauvignon Blancs were dreadful lacking any
resemblance to what we are used too and were devoid of primary fruit characters.
Hardy red grape wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc were
outstanding. The Merlots lacked structure and Pinot Noir was a great disappointment,
fickle as it is. It would be fair to say Riesling and Chardonnay are the
mainstay in the white department for table wines and Cabernet Franc and
Cabernet Sauvignon in the red.
Marynissen winery, in my view, produces some of the best Cabernet Francs
to be found on the peninsula, while Pillitteri, Inneskillen, Hillerbrand
and Strewn make some of the best ice wines, Chardonnays and Rieslings.
If the truth be known, ice wines were first made in the Oakanagan Valley,
400km south of Vancouver in 1973 by Haine Vineyards in British Columbia.
However Inneskillen in Niagara-on-the-Lake was the first winery in this
region to make ice wines and be granted a licence under the very strict
rules of the Liquor Control Board of Ontario in 1975.
Canada now produces more ice wine than any other country and this represents
only 2% of Canada's total wine production. While the thick skinned Riesling
is definitely queen of the ice wines, not all ice wine is made from Riesling.
Vidal, Seyval Blanc and Gewurztraminer are also used to make ice wines
and one or two wineries are even trying out Sauvignon Blanc.
Ice wines are generally picked between 10pm and 5am when the temperature
is at its lowest. Pickers can expect to earn around $75 per shift.
Stories abound that pickers are flown in from the Caribbean Islands and
kitted out from the local
K-Mart store for the vintage because no right minded Canadian will
get up out of bed to pick in these temperatures for what amounts to $10.80
per hour! New Years Eve and Valentines day can both prove a problem should
the weather not be kind. All picking is done under contract with local
farmers who grow grapes and supply labour, the wineries do not involve
themselves in organising labour.
Ice wine is made by slowly pressing frozen grapes that have hung on
the vine long after the northern harvest. This enables the water content
in the grape to evaporate while allowing the flavour constituents of the
grape to mellow. When pressing the grapes, great care must be taken not
to over press or the water from the grapes together with ice particles
will melt into the juice and dilute the wine. If the grapes start to rot
then the harvest will be declassified to a 'late harvest wine' instead
of an 'ice wine'.
The winter chill helps guarantee a sugar level of a minimum 35 brix
(about 18 grams of sugar per 100ml). When the temperature rises, the brix
level lowers. A higher brix, say over 20 grams, and the wine becomes cloying,
less than 17 and it's too thin. The thick skins of both Vidal and Riesling
add to the longevity of the grape on the vine during the harsh winters.
The wines made from Vidal grapes show peach, mango, hazelnuts and spice
and are more voluptuous. Wines made from Rieslings have more finesse and
are more citrusy, with hints of pear, mango and pineapple. It is recommended
that ice wine be served chilled and in a chilled glass for optimum enjoyment.
All vineyards are netted as birds are a major problem. In addition the
netting is also vital in catching the grapes as they fall off the vine
because the stems become too fickle during the long winter to hold the
bunches together. In order not to waste any grapes the netting is folded
under the bottom of the vine to catch any fallen bunches that would other
wise end up falling into the snow.
The main export market for icewine is Japan and Korea with America a
close third. The Japanese tour groups snap up the ice wines when visiting
the wineries at $50-60 a pop as these retail for $150-200 in Japan. There
is talk of an American businessman opening special "ice wine only" shops
in Hawai to capture the hordes of Japanese visitors who flock there.
Other countries such as America and New Zealand are also making ice
wines much to the annoyance of the Canadians, while the Germans look on
with disdain at all these "new kids on the block" stealing their prize
name and in some cases market share. As far as the Germans are concerned
anything made elsewhere is not Eiswein!
In regard to the table wines of Canada some very good examples of Cabernet
Franc, Chardonnay and Rieslings are to be found at very reasonable prices.
The local produce is generally scorned upon by the average beer drinking
Canadian as they don't believe their own wines have come of age. The Canadian
winemakers I spoke to told me that the domestic market has been stagnant
for quite some time. Though winemakers are promoting, more and more, their
home brands over imported brands, it seems the average Canadian is happy
to go with anything but Canadian wine.
In the liquor stores of Ontario, British Columbia and Alberta an increasing
amount of imported wine is being consumed over the local produce. Out of
the 64 imported wines on Ontario shelves the French and Italians lead the
way with only a handful of Australian brands making up this amount such
as Wolf Blass, Lindemans, Jacob's Creek. As far as the new world
is concerned I noted more Chilean wine on the shelves than any other country.
If it was not Chilean wine then Chilean red and white grapes at $1.99/lb
were seen in all the fruitiers.
For those Australian wine companies who have had any dealings with the
Liquor Control Board of Ontario you will know only too well how cumbersome
and time consuming the whole bureaucratic process is of sending in samples
for testing and finally getting your product onto the shelf. Indeed
I know of one such Kiwi producer who had the LCBO representative pay him
a visit and finally place an order for his wines, the whole process taking
two years. When the order was finally placed, the vintage for which the
order was placed was out of stock, they were now well into their second
vintage.
There's no doubt about it. The Canadian wine industry has come a long
way (in quality terms) since my first visit to the Niagara on the Lake
region in 1977. In the absence of any formal EU agreement, however, the
future for its wines in Europe is far from assured. Australia is not a
country they are looking to export to, but their eyes are on other Asian
and nordic countries and once the recession lifts these countries will
be targeted as potential ice wine markets. As far as Canadian table wines
are concerned Uncle Sam is the likely saviour of these wines.
Eastern
Airlines - May/June 1999
Tasmanian Wine - Small is Beautiful!
How often do you see Tasmanian wines on the shelves of your local bottle
shop? Not often I bet. There could be several reasons for this. Many of
the vineyards which make wine sell directly to overseas markets. Some,
not producing enough wine to sell in large quantities on the domestic market,
sell at cellar door or through mail order. Those wineries situated north
and south of Hobart are as thick as thieves when it comes to promoting
their product. For some the local Tasmanian market is the go. For others
their wines are sent to the mainland for distribution and for the lucky
few who choose to sell direct to overseas markets by-passing the Australian
domestic scene, the world is their oyster.
One of the smaller boutique wineries is Lubiana situated on the banks
of the Derwent 20km north west of Hobart. Winemaker Steve and his wife,
Monique, are a double act in every way when it comes to making and promoting
their wines. Their 170 acre Granton property established in 1990 focuses
on the production of hand crafted, cool climate still and sparkling table
wines. The conventional rows of vines run north to south over the gently
undulating hillside and down to the edge of the Derwent River. The Lubiana
wines consisting of pinot, riesling and sparkling, have made quite a name
for themselves during their short reign with many displaying medals from
regional and capital city shows.
Just over the rise, adjacent to Lubiana, is Derwent Estate - a relatively
new viticultural development owned by Pat & Trevor Hanigan
and established in 1993. The vineyard is planted to riesling, together
with a small amount of chardonnay and pinot noir. The rieslings have scored
one or two medals, not bad for a vineyard which is less than six years
old. Their 1995 riesling was drinking beautifully with a pungent aromatic
bouquet, limey citrusy flavours dominating the palate. The wines are made
under contract at Lubiana.
Laurel Banks, established in 1986, situated in the Derwent Valley 10
minutes north of Hobart, is a very small concern with three hectares planted
to sauvignon blanc, riesling and pinot noir. The latter is very impressive
- a chewy, ripe fruity pinot with complex fruit and oak integration. Their
sauvignon blanc also makes you sit up and take note. The intensity and
length of palate on this wine was astounding. They produce about 550 cases
per year and sell mainly to local bottle shops and through mail order.
Hartzview vineyard, established in 1988 and situated in the Huon Valley
45 minutes south of Hobart, specialises in fortified wines using the traditional
method of port production. The individual fruits are crushed, fermented
with a high alcohol yeast then fortified to 18%. No artificial flavours
and colourings are used in their production. A gooseberry (white port style)
fortified wine is made as well as a blackcurrant (tawny port style) fortified
wine, cherry fortified wine, blackberry fortified wine and blueberry liqueur.
All these styles are walking out the door, mainly to the Tasmanian market
but also selling to Singapore.
Domain A/Stoney vineyard is situated in the Coal River Valley, 30 minutes
drive south of Hobart and established in 1989 by Swiss industrialist Peter
Althaus. This winery is 'state of the art'. The winemaker's technique is
traditional European through and through and this is reflected in his wines
together with his approach to viticultural techniques. His wines, especially
the pinot and cabernet sauvignon, are blitzing it on the world stage. In
fact his Domain A 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon was third place in the first
"World Wide Tasting of Cabernet Sauvignon" to be entered in the Guinness
Book of Records. A total of 160 wines from 122 wine regions in 42 countries
were tasted. Domain A do not enter their wines into any Australian show
system, preferring instead to concentrate on the European show system with
startling results.
Panorama vineyard was established in 1974 in the Huon Valley around
the town of Cygnet and is about a one hour drive south of Hobart. Another
family concern, it is owned and operated by Sharon and Michael Vishacki.
The quantity of wine produced here is minuscule - less than 300 cases per
year. They are trying to build up their volume before exporting to the
mainland with Asia being another option. The richness of their pinots is
particularly impressive with the '97 being outstanding and the '96 not
as impressive.
The main point about the wineries mentioned above is that while production
may be small, these producers are an essential part of the Australian wine
industry. They work together, promote each other and come up trumps to
produce a quality drop. The wines may be a little hard to come by for us
mainlanders but whenever you're next in Tasmania and Hobart in particular,
take a good look around and taste the quality and distinct varietal flavours
of the wine styles on offer.
National Liquor News - September/October
1999
Canberra
wines holding their own!
Canberra is a decidedly cool climate wine region with an average rainfall
of 640mm, 7.5 sunshine hours per day and a mean January temperature (MJT)
of just over 20°c. Harvest starts around mid March until the end of
April. Drip irrigation is a requirement in every vineyard. This year the
Riesling grape, the principal white grape in the region, was virtually
wiped out due to bad frost. It would be fair to say Riesling reigns supreme
in the white department while Shiraz is beyond doubt the mainstay in the
reds. Cabernet and Merlot are also proving themselves to be as resilient
as ever, as a typical Bordeaux blend.
There have been wineries in the Canberra district since 1971. The region
was first planted by Dr Edgar Rick who planted a small holding close to
Lake George. Later he was to be joined by many other doctors, mainly doctors
of letters, who saw the potential the area had to offer and left the CSIRO
to set up wineries in the region. Today many of the locals say the wines
are too expensive and are not of high quality. One gets the impression
they don't know too much about wine, especially wines emanating from their
own region. The fact is nothing could be further from the truth.
When talking about the Canberra region, in terms of wine, I would like
to point out that there is currently only one small winery actually situated
within the ACT border. Mount Majura, situated on Majura Road is owned by
a Sydney consortium and produces a single Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Merlot.
All other wineries situated in the Canberra region are technically within
NSW.
In saying that, BRL Hardy, with the help of the Carnell government and
a separate arrangement with the ACT Racing Club, has managed to secure
land adjacent to the Canberra Racecourse. A three hectare vineyard is proposed
in the centre of the course together with a winery capable (when fully
operational) of processing 4000 tonnes of fruit adjacent to the racecourse
site. At present BRL Hardy's grapes supply comes from surrounding wine
regions such as Hilltops, Cowra and Young. They are crushed at Jeir Creek
(also in the Canberra region) and are transported to Hardy's main processing
plant in Adelaide. If one of Australia's largest wine companies has set
up shop in the Canberra region with an investment of between $15-20 million
it surely confirms the suitability of the region that others in the district
have been espousing for years.
The majority of wineries (15 in total) together with a small number
of growers are to be found along the Barton Hwy around Hall and Murrumbateman
between 20 and 40km after the turn-off from Northbourne Ave. The others
such as Madew, Lark Hill and Affleck are scattered around Lake George on
the Federal Hwy about 30-35km north of the Barton Hwy turn-off.
My first port of call was Doonkuna Estate owned by Dr Barry Moran who
runs the property. It is the only winery in the region to have its own
winemaker. One of his wines, the 1996 Cabernet/Merlot, was recently selected
by the Qantas tasting panel for inclusion in its new look wine selection
to be served in business and first classes. The tenacity of his son Greg,
who happens to be a paraplegic and is studying Wine Science at Charles
Sturt University, cannot be overestimated. He hopes to assist the present
winemaker, Englishman Malcolm Burdett, when he completes his studies.
Clonakilla just down the road is another famous name run by Dr John
Kirk and his son Tim who have found that Shiraz is their saviour with a
touch of Vionier. It has a retail value of around $38 and sells for $70
at major Sydney restaurants. John says "he finds it all a bit of an embarrassment
when people ring up looking for the Shiraz and I have to tell them we have
none" - an enviable situation!
Jeir Creek is run by Rob Howell. On the first Sunday of the month music
interludes entice crowds from far and wide to sip the wine and eat the
food. Rob is planning to extend his winery and add a restaurant and kitchen
in addition to further plantings. These plans however are subject to whether
or not the Federal Government's proposed new extra tax called the 'Wine
Equalisation Tax' (to be levied at the rate of 31% ad valorem) is adopted.
Should the tax be levied in its proposed form he is thinking about exporting
his wines overseas which will put paid to his future plans for his winery
expansion.
Heading back towards Canberra around the town of Hall is Brindabella
Hills. Winemaker Dr Roger Harris makes a small but impressive line-up of
wines, in particular his '98 Shiraz. Deep purple in colour, the dark berry
fruit is intense with a firm structure, good acid and tannin balance. It's
definitely one to look out for.
Pankhurst is another small winery producing about 2,000 cases and sells
its wines mainly on the Queensland market and the rest through cellar door
sales. The Pankhurst '97 Pinot Noir is a knockout for $20. You don't find
too many good Pinots at this price anywhere!
Lark Hill, situated around Bungendore heading north on the Federal Hwy,
is as familiar a name as any in the region. Here Dr David Carpenter has
a very good reputation in the industry for producing an array of award
winning wines from major capital and regional shows. In particular two
gold medals were awarded in the 1997 Royal Sydney Wine Show for the 1996
Pinot Noir and the 1995 Cabernet/Merlot. It's not hard to see why.
And finally Madew wines on the edge of Lake George has gone leaps and
bounds since David Madew took over the reigns from his father Dr Madew.
Part time winemaker, part time theatre director, David combines both his
love of wine and theatre into in one. Recently he organised an opera at
Madew Estate for Opera Australia showcasing Joan Carden and other opera
stars and attracted nearly 2,500 people. Not bad for the first of what
will hopefully become an annual event. The Madew '97 Chardonnay is worthy
of note together with the yet to be released '97 Pinot Noir, a stunner
which may also make its debut at the next "Opera By George" in 2000.
Canberra winemakers have a great allie in the Territory's government
headed by Kate Carnell who is a great ambassador for the local wine industry.
Despite locals having the nation's highest per capita disposable income
(whatever that may be), generally speaking its not they who are buying
the local wines, but more and more Sydneysiders.
You can be assured the winemakers of the Canberra district are producing
many excellent award winning wines, a fact yet to be fully recognised by
the locals. Now with almost 30 years behind them in the wine business the
proof is in the bottle.
National Liquor News - November/December 1999
Yalumba has cause for celebration
- Millennium included
As we come to the close of this millennium and enter the next, let's
pause for one moment and reflect on a wine industry with export sales at
an all time high. According to the '2025 plan' (the Australian wine industry
strategy for the next century) it has reached the magical one million tonnes,
a year ahead of schedule. As a result the industry is the toast of success
in markets around the world.
A great part of this success is due to small and medium sized family
owned wineries such as Yalumba. Currently celebrating its 150th year, Yalumba
was established in 1849 by English born Dorset brewer, Samuel Smith, who
had arrived in Adelaide with his family two years earlier. It took him
four days by bullock and dray to move from Adelaide to the town of Angaston
in the beautiful Barossa Valley 60km north east. Although a well to do
man prior to his arrival in the colonies, he worked hard and within two
years had saved enough to purchase a thirty acre block of his own in the
Barossa. He named the property 'Yalumba', aboriginal for "all the land
around" and planted the first vines by moonlight, on account of the fact
he also had a day job. You could say in today's world he was 'moonlighting'.
The rest, as they say, is history.
Yalumba is amongst Australia's most successful medium sized wine companies
and while 1999 is an anniversary, it's also the 10th anniversary of the
buyout of other family members by current owners, Robert and Sam Hill Smith.
Robert was appointed Managing Director in 1985. Since then the Hill Smith
brothers have, between them, ensured the growth and future direction of
the company to even greater success. During this 10 years the business
has undergone a major restructure and change of direction with investment
in prime vineyards sites in Eden Valley, Coonawarra and Wrattonbully in
the south east of the state, not to mention a significant upgrading and
modernisation of Yalumba's own winery at Angaston.
The portfolio of wines produced by Yalumba is astounding with a range
to suit all palates and pockets. Entry point wines such as Yalumba Christobel's,
Oxford Landing and Angus Brut are perfectly palatable drops for their prize
range. I recall buying a few cases of the 1991 Oxford Landing Cabernet/Shiraz
blend in 1993 for $4 a bottle. I am still drinking them now in 1999. Today
the retail price of this wine is $7.95. Galway Hermitage is another good
buy at the same price.
As we move up the ladder to the Family Selection Range,
the Yalumba Varietal range and the Yalumba D' sparkling wine (at the
premium end of the sparkling wine market), you get some idea of what I'm
talking about when I say portfolio. Yalumba has also purchased the Heggies
and Pewsey Vale brands to expand on other varieties such as Riesling, Viognier,
Pinot Noir and Merlot. Viognier, proving its worth with Yalumba, originated
in the Rhone Valley of France. The wine I believe will be an emerging wine
of the future particularly for Yalumba.
The Growers range salutes the growers whose grapes have made these wines
by mentioning them by name on the back labels. The Signature range is one
of a trio of exceptional wines which includes the Menzies and the Octavius,
known simply as 'the premium reds'. At the top end of the spectrum I much
preferred the Octavius. This is 100% Barossa Shiraz at its best - richly
textured with great depth and firm tannins the fruit is ripe and plummy
with licorice overtones. A wine that will improve with time and one to
watch out for.
As an outsider looking in the people who head Yalumba are not just family
orientated with their own family members but regard all the workforce as
'family'. This is reflected by the Signature label which honours someone
who has made an outstanding contribution to Yalumba. The roll call of workers,
both past and present, on the wall in reception in the original building,
is testament to the importance placed on people as a vital resource to
its past and future successes. In the winery's 150th year the Signature
label is dedicated to everyone who has ever worked for Yalumba.
To understand the success of Yalumba is not just to look at the ever
expanding portfolio but to look at its success both at home and abroad.
In Asia particularly Japan, Europe, the US, New Zealand and England, Yalumba
is there. In fact England is the major export market for Yalumba and accounts
for 60% of all export sales. As a result they have an office there in Hartfordshire.
It's like selling sand to the arabs. Who would have thought the 6th generation
of Hill Smiths would be selling its wines to the folks back home.
I can't help wondering, if founder Samuel Smith was around today, what
would he have to say to his descendants about the company he founded and
the success it is today. Do you think he would approve? I'm sure he is
smiling from on high. As we head into the new millennium, perhaps the next
range of wines emanating from Yalumba will be the 'Family Tree' range,
after all they are inherently proud of their history and the wines they
produce and so they should be. To Yalumba - May there be even greater rewards
in the new millennium!
